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Hello From Austria: A Hike Through The Raabklamm And A Visit To Graz (II)

I continued my drive into the centre of Grazconstruction began in 1544. Today there are
and parked my vehicle in the undergroundvarious cannons that adorn the bastion and at
garage next to the Graz Opera - at more thanthe open front of the building there is a
20 Euros not exactly an inexpensive way tobeautiful view overlooking the city. Just
see the city, but affordable parking isbelow the bastion is the "Türkenbrunnen"
difficult to find in downtown Graz. My first(Turkish Well), a 94 metre deep well that
stop was the Graz Opera House, a neo-baroquetaps into the groundwater level of the Mur
building that was opened in 1899 and damagedRiver. Its intention was to provide water,
during an air strike in World War II. A feweven  during extended periods of besiegement.
steps further west I reached the Herrengasse,
the main shopping street of Graz, framed byThe Uhrturm itself, known far and wide as the
dozens of high-end retailers and restaurantssymbol of Graz, is one of the oldest
with outdoor patios. A line of the Grazbuildings of the city. The core of the tower
streetcar system continues all along theis assumed to date back to the 13th century
length  of  this  major  street.and was already mentioned in historic records
in 1265. Its present appearance dates from
The west side of the Herrengasse features two1560. Four large clock faces adorn the four
major sights: the Landeszeughaus (Armory), asides of the tower, and the interesting thing
weapons museum with roughly 32,000 exhibitsto note is that the hour hand is smaller than
including harnesses, helmets, armours, riflesthe  minute  hand.
and pistols, as well as the Landhaus, seat of
the Styrian Provincial Government. One ofOriginally, the tower only featured a very
Central Europe's most stunning Renaissancelarge hour hand, and the minute hands that
structures, this palace was built in thewere installed later had to be designed
first half of the 16th century according tosmaller so people would be able to
plans of the famous architect Domenicodistinguish one from the other. Fortunately,
dell'Allio. The three level arcaded courtyarddue to the ransom paid in 1809, the tower has
is a true architectural gem, and on thesurvived and we are still able to admire it
southern end of the square visitors can relaxtoday while the remainder of the
in the historic Landhauskeller restaurantfortification was razed. The tower was also
which features an attractive courtyard patio.used as a fire alarm bell, as a the "Bell of
Poor Sinners" that was rung during
On the other side of the Herrengasse is theexecutions, and as the bell that announced
"Gemaltes Haus" - also called thethe closing hours for the local hospitality
"Herzogshof" (Painted House or Duke'sestablishments.
Estate), a painted house whose baroque
frescoes were created in 1742 by Johann MayerJust below the Uhrturm is a small garden
and illustrate the gods of Roman-Greeksurrounded by flowers which offers a gorgeous
mythology. Just steps northwards from there Iview over the city and its Main Square. I
reached the "Grazer Hauptplatz", or Graz'started to make my way down from the
main square. This extensive essentiallySchlossberg along the serpentine-like paths
triangular square is framed on two sides byin the park and stopped by the entrance to
five and six story stately houses painted inthe Schlossbergstollen (Schlossberg Tunnel),
a variety of intense baroque colours such aspart of the tunnel system that is built into
salmon, ochre, brick red, and many featurethe mountain and was used as air raid
detailed  façade  ornamentations.shelters during the air attacks of World War
II. Today you can cross the base of the
The south side of the square is taken up bymountain through this tunnel. At the base I
the "Rathaus" - the flamboyant historicistreached the Karmeliterplatz Square. One of
late 19th century palace of the Graz' Citythe buildings on the north side of the
Hall. Just in front of it is theadjacent Sporgasse also features a stunning
Erzherzog-Johann-Brunnen (Archduke Johanninner courtyard and I wished I had had more
Fountain) which is surrounded by numeroustime to explore the hidden treasures of Graz'
adjacent fast food and retail stands thatsecret  courtyards.
sell typical Austrian sausages, French fries,
flowers and magazines as well as roastedI turned left into a street called Hofgasse
chestnuts in the fall. The northeast side ofand stopped at a very unusual building: the
the Hauptplatz features a view of Graz' mostEdegger-Tax Bakery, a so-called royal bakery,
famous landmark: the "Uhrturm" (Clock Tower),the oldest such establishment in Graz that
located on the Schlossberg hill thatdates back to 1569. It stunning 1896 carved
overlooks  the  city.wooden portal sets it apart from the
surrounding stuccoed houses and during the
I continued my walk northwards through thislate 1800 this bakery became an official
pedestrian zone along the historicsupplier  of Austria's ruling royal families.
Sackstrasse and walked into a truly historic
restaurant: the "Krebsenkeller" (CrawfishMy walk continued to the Freiheitsplatz
Cellar) has been a restaurant here since 1538("Liberty Square") which is the location of
and its inner courtyard was full of culinaryGraz' theatre. Across the street from the
fans. Across the street is the famous HotelSchauspielhaus theatre is the Grazer Dom, a
Erzherzog Johann which is also a restaurantcathedral that dates back to 1438. The south
since 1852. Just steps further north I walkedside of this late-Gothic church is adorned
into another historic building whosewith a painting of the three scourges: the
courtyard was adorned with a metal sculptureBlack Plage, war and locusts. Austrian
that surprisingly featured all sorts ofimperial coats of arms as well as those of
American  footballs.Styria and Portugal point to the historic
aristocratic  connections.
Metres away is the so-called
Schlossbergplatz, a square framed by variousRight next to the Dom is the Mausoleum of
bourgeois houses and historic restaurantsAustrian emperor Francis Ferdinand II, one of
that features stairs up to the Schlossberg. IAustria's most important structures of
then crossed the road and walked southwardsMannerism and Early Baroque. Designed in the
alongside the Mur River to one of the newestlate 1600 it is the last resting place of
landmarks of Graz: the "Murinsel" (MurFrancis Ferdinand as well as a variety of
Island) was built in 2003 when Graz was theother  Habsburg  rulers.
European Cultural Capital. The New York
designer Vito Acconci created a design for anI continued my walk down the Bürgergasse
artificial island that connects the easternand turned into the small Abraham a Santa
and western banks of the Mur and is supposedClara side street until I arrived at the
to resemble a sea-shell. The interior of theGlockenspielplatz ("Carillon Square"), aptly
island holds an amphitheatre, a restaurantnamed for the carillon built in 1905 that
and  a  playground  for  children.enchants crowds of onlookers three times a
day at 11 am, 3 and 6 pm. A wooden couple
Now I needed to explore the city's mostdressed in traditional Styrian outfits, and
prominent elevation: the Schlossbergthe male with a raised wine glass, dance to
(literally "Castle Hill"). I did that bythe  old  melodies  of  24  bells.
taking the Schlossbergbahn funicular which is
part of the Graz public transport system. TheThis entire area is part of the
original steam-operated funicular was openedBermuda-Dreieck ("Bermuda Triangle"), Graz's
in November 1894 and was in operation untilmost popular entertainment area that is
1960. After an extensive renovation andcentred around the Mehlplatz, Prokopigasse
rebuilding of the steep rails, the funicularand Färberplatz. Dozens of hospitality
started operating again in 1961 until itestablishments, most with outdoor patios,
closed  its  doors  in  February  of  2004.entice locals and travelers alike to explore
the culinary and entertainment opportunities
The third generation of this funicular wasthat  Graz  has  to  offer.
initiated in early 2004 and cost about 2.5
million Euros. The new generation of vehiclesThe Erzherzog-Johann Brunnen (fountain) on
is more spacious and features fullyGraz'  Main  Square
glass-enclosed roofs and windows which
provide a great view of the city as youThrough one of the tiny passageways I ended
ascend up the mountain. It takes just overup back on the Main Square and took another
two minutes to go from the base station uptiny alleyway, full of bars, restaurants and
123 m in altitude to the upper station and atsmall retail stores to the back of the
a cost of 1.70 Euro it is an affordable andFranziskanerkirche (Franciscan Church). From
interesting way of getting up to Graz' famousthe front of the church there is a perfect
hill.view across the Mur River of the "Kunsthaus",
Graz' Museum of Modern Art that was completed
At the top I stepped out onto the outdoorin 2003 and resembles a rounded spaceship.
patio of a restaurant that offers aThe entire downtown of Graz is chock full of
phenomenal view over Graz and the surroundingbars and restaurants and all the squares and
mountains. Steps away I saw the Glockenturmside streets are full of "Schanigärten"
("Bell Tower"), a historic building from 1588(outdoor patios) that entice you to sit down,
which still houses a bell that weighs 4200 kgrest and enjoy some hearty Austrian food and
and is referred to as Liesl. The Schlossbergdrink.
used to feature a medieval castle from the
1500s (therefore the name "Castle Hill") thatI had thoroughly enjoyed my exploration of
was ordered to be destroyed by Napoleon inGraz, and drove home to relax with my brother
1809. Only the Bell Tower and Graz' famousand sister-in-law and to reflect on a day
landmark, the Uhrturm, were allowed to remainfull of discoveries. There would have been so
of the fortress. The local residents had paidmuch more to see in Graz, but I would have to
a considerable ransom to the French troops toleave some destinations for my next visit.
hold  on  to  their  beloved  landmarks.After a nice pizza dinner in a local
restaurant in Weiz I headed to bed early
Walking southwards of the Glockenturm Isince tomorrow we are going to go on a major
arrived at the Stallbastei ("Stableexcursion: a trip to the mountains of
Bastion"), a fortification that features 20Slovenia and Italy!
metre high and 6 metre thick walls whose



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