| I continued my drive into the centre of Graz | | | | construction began in 1544. Today there are |
| and parked my vehicle in the underground | | | | various cannons that adorn the bastion and at |
| garage next to the Graz Opera - at more than | | | | the open front of the building there is a |
| 20 Euros not exactly an inexpensive way to | | | | beautiful view overlooking the city. Just |
| see the city, but affordable parking is | | | | below the bastion is the "Türkenbrunnen" |
| difficult to find in downtown Graz. My first | | | | (Turkish Well), a 94 metre deep well that |
| stop was the Graz Opera House, a neo-baroque | | | | taps into the groundwater level of the Mur |
| building that was opened in 1899 and damaged | | | | River. Its intention was to provide water, |
| during an air strike in World War II. A few | | | | even during extended periods of besiegement. |
| steps further west I reached the Herrengasse, | | | | |
| the main shopping street of Graz, framed by | | | | The Uhrturm itself, known far and wide as the |
| dozens of high-end retailers and restaurants | | | | symbol of Graz, is one of the oldest |
| with outdoor patios. A line of the Graz | | | | buildings of the city. The core of the tower |
| streetcar system continues all along the | | | | is assumed to date back to the 13th century |
| length of this major street. | | | | and was already mentioned in historic records |
| | | | in 1265. Its present appearance dates from |
| The west side of the Herrengasse features two | | | | 1560. Four large clock faces adorn the four |
| major sights: the Landeszeughaus (Armory), a | | | | sides of the tower, and the interesting thing |
| weapons museum with roughly 32,000 exhibits | | | | to note is that the hour hand is smaller than |
| including harnesses, helmets, armours, rifles | | | | the minute hand. |
| and pistols, as well as the Landhaus, seat of | | | | |
| the Styrian Provincial Government. One of | | | | Originally, the tower only featured a very |
| Central Europe's most stunning Renaissance | | | | large hour hand, and the minute hands that |
| structures, this palace was built in the | | | | were installed later had to be designed |
| first half of the 16th century according to | | | | smaller so people would be able to |
| plans of the famous architect Domenico | | | | distinguish one from the other. Fortunately, |
| dell'Allio. The three level arcaded courtyard | | | | due to the ransom paid in 1809, the tower has |
| is a true architectural gem, and on the | | | | survived and we are still able to admire it |
| southern end of the square visitors can relax | | | | today while the remainder of the |
| in the historic Landhauskeller restaurant | | | | fortification was razed. The tower was also |
| which features an attractive courtyard patio. | | | | used as a fire alarm bell, as a the "Bell of |
| | | | Poor Sinners" that was rung during |
| On the other side of the Herrengasse is the | | | | executions, and as the bell that announced |
| "Gemaltes Haus" - also called the | | | | the closing hours for the local hospitality |
| "Herzogshof" (Painted House or Duke's | | | | establishments. |
| Estate), a painted house whose baroque | | | | |
| frescoes were created in 1742 by Johann Mayer | | | | Just below the Uhrturm is a small garden |
| and illustrate the gods of Roman-Greek | | | | surrounded by flowers which offers a gorgeous |
| mythology. Just steps northwards from there I | | | | view over the city and its Main Square. I |
| reached the "Grazer Hauptplatz", or Graz' | | | | started to make my way down from the |
| main square. This extensive essentially | | | | Schlossberg along the serpentine-like paths |
| triangular square is framed on two sides by | | | | in the park and stopped by the entrance to |
| five and six story stately houses painted in | | | | the Schlossbergstollen (Schlossberg Tunnel), |
| a variety of intense baroque colours such as | | | | part of the tunnel system that is built into |
| salmon, ochre, brick red, and many feature | | | | the mountain and was used as air raid |
| detailed façade ornamentations. | | | | shelters during the air attacks of World War |
| | | | II. Today you can cross the base of the |
| The south side of the square is taken up by | | | | mountain through this tunnel. At the base I |
| the "Rathaus" - the flamboyant historicist | | | | reached the Karmeliterplatz Square. One of |
| late 19th century palace of the Graz' City | | | | the buildings on the north side of the |
| Hall. Just in front of it is the | | | | adjacent Sporgasse also features a stunning |
| Erzherzog-Johann-Brunnen (Archduke Johann | | | | inner courtyard and I wished I had had more |
| Fountain) which is surrounded by numerous | | | | time to explore the hidden treasures of Graz' |
| adjacent fast food and retail stands that | | | | secret courtyards. |
| sell typical Austrian sausages, French fries, | | | | |
| flowers and magazines as well as roasted | | | | I turned left into a street called Hofgasse |
| chestnuts in the fall. The northeast side of | | | | and stopped at a very unusual building: the |
| the Hauptplatz features a view of Graz' most | | | | Edegger-Tax Bakery, a so-called royal bakery, |
| famous landmark: the "Uhrturm" (Clock Tower), | | | | the oldest such establishment in Graz that |
| located on the Schlossberg hill that | | | | dates back to 1569. It stunning 1896 carved |
| overlooks the city. | | | | wooden portal sets it apart from the |
| | | | surrounding stuccoed houses and during the |
| I continued my walk northwards through this | | | | late 1800 this bakery became an official |
| pedestrian zone along the historic | | | | supplier of Austria's ruling royal families. |
| Sackstrasse and walked into a truly historic | | | | |
| restaurant: the "Krebsenkeller" (Crawfish | | | | My walk continued to the Freiheitsplatz |
| Cellar) has been a restaurant here since 1538 | | | | ("Liberty Square") which is the location of |
| and its inner courtyard was full of culinary | | | | Graz' theatre. Across the street from the |
| fans. Across the street is the famous Hotel | | | | Schauspielhaus theatre is the Grazer Dom, a |
| Erzherzog Johann which is also a restaurant | | | | cathedral that dates back to 1438. The south |
| since 1852. Just steps further north I walked | | | | side of this late-Gothic church is adorned |
| into another historic building whose | | | | with a painting of the three scourges: the |
| courtyard was adorned with a metal sculpture | | | | Black Plage, war and locusts. Austrian |
| that surprisingly featured all sorts of | | | | imperial coats of arms as well as those of |
| American footballs. | | | | Styria and Portugal point to the historic |
| | | | aristocratic connections. |
| Metres away is the so-called | | | | |
| Schlossbergplatz, a square framed by various | | | | Right next to the Dom is the Mausoleum of |
| bourgeois houses and historic restaurants | | | | Austrian emperor Francis Ferdinand II, one of |
| that features stairs up to the Schlossberg. I | | | | Austria's most important structures of |
| then crossed the road and walked southwards | | | | Mannerism and Early Baroque. Designed in the |
| alongside the Mur River to one of the newest | | | | late 1600 it is the last resting place of |
| landmarks of Graz: the "Murinsel" (Mur | | | | Francis Ferdinand as well as a variety of |
| Island) was built in 2003 when Graz was the | | | | other Habsburg rulers. |
| European Cultural Capital. The New York | | | | |
| designer Vito Acconci created a design for an | | | | I continued my walk down the Bürgergasse |
| artificial island that connects the eastern | | | | and turned into the small Abraham a Santa |
| and western banks of the Mur and is supposed | | | | Clara side street until I arrived at the |
| to resemble a sea-shell. The interior of the | | | | Glockenspielplatz ("Carillon Square"), aptly |
| island holds an amphitheatre, a restaurant | | | | named for the carillon built in 1905 that |
| and a playground for children. | | | | enchants crowds of onlookers three times a |
| | | | day at 11 am, 3 and 6 pm. A wooden couple |
| Now I needed to explore the city's most | | | | dressed in traditional Styrian outfits, and |
| prominent elevation: the Schlossberg | | | | the male with a raised wine glass, dance to |
| (literally "Castle Hill"). I did that by | | | | the old melodies of 24 bells. |
| taking the Schlossbergbahn funicular which is | | | | |
| part of the Graz public transport system. The | | | | This entire area is part of the |
| original steam-operated funicular was opened | | | | Bermuda-Dreieck ("Bermuda Triangle"), Graz's |
| in November 1894 and was in operation until | | | | most popular entertainment area that is |
| 1960. After an extensive renovation and | | | | centred around the Mehlplatz, Prokopigasse |
| rebuilding of the steep rails, the funicular | | | | and Färberplatz. Dozens of hospitality |
| started operating again in 1961 until it | | | | establishments, most with outdoor patios, |
| closed its doors in February of 2004. | | | | entice locals and travelers alike to explore |
| | | | the culinary and entertainment opportunities |
| The third generation of this funicular was | | | | that Graz has to offer. |
| initiated in early 2004 and cost about 2.5 | | | | |
| million Euros. The new generation of vehicles | | | | The Erzherzog-Johann Brunnen (fountain) on |
| is more spacious and features fully | | | | Graz' Main Square |
| glass-enclosed roofs and windows which | | | | |
| provide a great view of the city as you | | | | Through one of the tiny passageways I ended |
| ascend up the mountain. It takes just over | | | | up back on the Main Square and took another |
| two minutes to go from the base station up | | | | tiny alleyway, full of bars, restaurants and |
| 123 m in altitude to the upper station and at | | | | small retail stores to the back of the |
| a cost of 1.70 Euro it is an affordable and | | | | Franziskanerkirche (Franciscan Church). From |
| interesting way of getting up to Graz' famous | | | | the front of the church there is a perfect |
| hill. | | | | view across the Mur River of the "Kunsthaus", |
| | | | Graz' Museum of Modern Art that was completed |
| At the top I stepped out onto the outdoor | | | | in 2003 and resembles a rounded spaceship. |
| patio of a restaurant that offers a | | | | The entire downtown of Graz is chock full of |
| phenomenal view over Graz and the surrounding | | | | bars and restaurants and all the squares and |
| mountains. Steps away I saw the Glockenturm | | | | side streets are full of "Schanigärten" |
| ("Bell Tower"), a historic building from 1588 | | | | (outdoor patios) that entice you to sit down, |
| which still houses a bell that weighs 4200 kg | | | | rest and enjoy some hearty Austrian food and |
| and is referred to as Liesl. The Schlossberg | | | | drink. |
| used to feature a medieval castle from the | | | | |
| 1500s (therefore the name "Castle Hill") that | | | | I had thoroughly enjoyed my exploration of |
| was ordered to be destroyed by Napoleon in | | | | Graz, and drove home to relax with my brother |
| 1809. Only the Bell Tower and Graz' famous | | | | and sister-in-law and to reflect on a day |
| landmark, the Uhrturm, were allowed to remain | | | | full of discoveries. There would have been so |
| of the fortress. The local residents had paid | | | | much more to see in Graz, but I would have to |
| a considerable ransom to the French troops to | | | | leave some destinations for my next visit. |
| hold on to their beloved landmarks. | | | | After a nice pizza dinner in a local |
| | | | restaurant in Weiz I headed to bed early |
| Walking southwards of the Glockenturm I | | | | since tomorrow we are going to go on a major |
| arrived at the Stallbastei ("Stable | | | | excursion: a trip to the mountains of |
| Bastion"), a fortification that features 20 | | | | Slovenia and Italy! |
| metre high and 6 metre thick walls whose | | | | |